Any discontinuity higher than your whole wheel radius is one you have to bunny hop. Any discontinuity in the pavement that is higher than half your wheel radius is one you must prepare and lean back for. The larger your wheels, the less you will notice bad surfaces. Also, you can swap front and rear wheels for longevity. The wheel had worn down somewhat, but it outlasted the aluminum. But recognize that the handbrake advantage is more about heat dissipation and less about actual braking power, since any gains are mooted by front-tip-over torque.Īfter 500 miles on the first scooter, the aluminum panel of the rear brake wore through, and I combined the least worn parts of each scooter to continue riding. This is probably an argument in favor of handbrakes. You can never use a foot-brake barefoot because of burns, and I literally melted the sole of some shoes. This means you convert all of the reduction in your forward-movement energy into sound and heat. Wet leaves will slide right over each other, giving you zero braking power and probably fishtailing your scooter.Īll scooter brake options I know of operate via friction. Wet leaves are your worst case, and they stay wet much longer than pavement. Your braking efficacy is certainly diminished in wet weather, and you may need to reduce speed to compensate or ride the brake to slough off some of the water. It is how much torque you can put onto the rear of the scooter to avoid that nasty trip over the handlebars. Unless it is wet outside, the limiting factor of foot-brakes is not typically the braking force. If you don't lean backward, you are likely to pitch forward over the handlebars when slowing down. Folding scooters typically have wheels that are quite small, and even those that do not fold will still have much smaller wheels than a bicycle. The other had some peeling handlebar foam but was otherwise fine. They have the foot-operated rear friction brakes. My rides were two small folding Razor scooters, bought second-hand, at $10 each. I feel reasonably qualified to discuss some of the implications. I rode about 3 miles a day, perhaps 700 miles in total (max 5% grade uphill max 7.5% downhill). I used to commute by kick-driven scooter. lower standard elsewhere in a budget machine. Is a rear disc brake a desirable option for occasional use in fair weather? My concern is the trade-off in getting a better braking system vs. Would the additional handlebar-mounted lever be useful or prove ineffective for rapid braking? From the photos I've seen, there appears to be little mechanical advantage in the braking mechanism. Does this type of brake perform adequately for an adult (70kg) travelling around town? budget scooter with rear disc brake and handlebar mounted leverįor occasional use I presume friction-on-tyre would be adequate, albeit cause accelerated tyre wear.scooter with foot operated rear brake (friction on tyre) plus ancillary handlebar mounted lever.scooter with foot operated rear brake (friction on tyre).My budget is sub-£100 (GBP) and this appears to give me three options: I am very familiar with riding a bike and using handlebar-mounted brake levers. I am looking for a commuting / recreation scooter but have no experience of using one.
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